Megatron
Assembly Guide
Megatron fully assembled · smoke gray backdrop · front 3/4 angle
Blokees Galaxy Version 01 Megatron. Arm cannon and blast FX included.
Megatron from Blokees Galaxy Version 01 Roll Out is the figure most collectors are hunting for in this wave — and for good reason. The G1 robot mode is clean, the proportions are solid, and that arm cannon with blast FX actually delivers. Here’s how to build him right the first time.
The Galaxy Version 01 Roll Out wave launched in 2023 as Blokees’ debut Transformers line — nine regular figures plus a hidden special edition Optimus Prime. Megatron is figure GV-01 07, one of the more sought-after pulls from the blind box. No glue, no cutters, no sprue work. Pre-cut ABS, snap assembly only. Let’s get into it.
01 What’s in the Box
Since this is a blind box kit, everything arrives in small plastic bags inside the box — pre-cut ABS, ready to snap. Here’s what you should have laid out before you start.
All bags laid out flat before opening · overhead flat-lay shot
Everything Megatron comes with, laid out before opening a single bag.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Figure Parts | Pre-cut ABS pieces across multiple bags — body, limbs, armor panels, head |
| Internal Skeleton | Gray structural frame — this goes together first |
| Arm Cannon | Megatron’s fusion cannon — attaches to right forearm |
| Blast FX | Clear translucent blast effect, friction-fits to cannon muzzle |
| Display Stand | Slotted base with foot peg |
| Instructions | Paper numbered diagram sheet — no text, just pictures |
Sort the bags by size and do a quick count against the instruction sheet’s parts diagram. Blokees QC is generally solid, but blind box production runs can occasionally short a small piece. Better to find out now than mid-build.
02 Before You Start
One rule that applies to every Blokees figure in every wave: skeleton first. The internal frame goes together completely before any outer armor panel gets attached. The armor panels are designed to clip over the skeleton — not the other way around. If you skip ahead and start snapping chest armor onto an unfinished frame, you’ll be unsnapping it.
Internal skeleton frame laid out before assembly begins
The skeleton before a single armor piece goes on. This is where your build starts.
Complete the entire internal frame before touching any outer armor. No exceptions. This is the single most common mistake new Blokees builders make — and the one that causes stress marks and cracked tabs from forced reassembly.
Work on a white surface or light tray. Megatron has small gray structural pieces that disappear on a dark desk. Ask me how I know.
03 Assembly
Follow the numbered instruction sheet as your primary guide — the diagrams are clear and step-by-step. The notes below call out where builders typically get stuck or where the instructions are ambiguous.
Build the Core Skeleton — Torso
Open the skeleton frame bag. The torso is the anchor for everything — build this first and build it solid. Connection points are ball joints and tab-and-slot. Press firmly but don’t force — if something isn’t seating, check orientation against the diagram before pushing harder.
Torso skeleton assembled, front view
Torso skeleton locked together. Note the hip ball joints — these set the stance.
Legs and Lower Body Skeleton
Upper legs connect to the hip ball joints. Knee joints are directional — check orientation before snapping. The lower leg connects at the knee; the foot attaches at the ankle via a small swivel peg. Get this right before moving on — the legs bear weight on the display stand and a misaligned ankle will cause the figure to lean.
connection
ankle swivel
Left: hip ball joint. Right: ankle swivel — check orientation before snapping.
Arms and Shoulder Skeleton
The shoulder joints connect via a T-bar that slides into the upper torso frame. Seat it fully before attaching the upper arm — you’ll feel it click. The elbow is a single-axis hinge. The wrist swivel is tight by design; it loosens slightly with posing.
Full skeleton assembled — torso, legs, arms — before any armor
Complete skeleton before armor. Pose it through the full range of motion before moving on.
Before any armor goes on, move every joint through its full range. Everything should move without resistance or grinding. Address it now — joints are much harder to reach once armor is attached.
Head and Neck Assembly
The head is its own sub-assembly. The neck peg connects to the torso at a swivel point — left/right rotation only. Megatron’s face plate is a separate piece that snaps onto the head frame. Make sure the tabs seat evenly on both sides before pressing fully, or one side will sit proud.
Head sub-assembly · face plate seated
Head sub-assembly before attachment. Both face plate tabs need to seat evenly.
Outer Armor — Chest and Torso Panels
Now the armor goes on. Start with the chest. The chest panels clip over the torso skeleton from the front — align the clips with the skeleton’s tabs before pressing. Don’t press one side all the way in before starting the other. Even pressure across the panel, both sides together.
Chest armor applied over skeleton, front angle
Chest panels clip over the torso skeleton. Even pressure both sides — don’t lever one edge in first.
Outer Armor — Legs
Leg armor clips around the skeletal legs in sections: thigh panels, knee cap, shin panels. Work top to bottom. The knee piece is the fiddliest part of this build — it has to clear the knee joint without binding it. If the knee stops moving after you attach the knee cap, pop it off, check the diagram, and reseat it. Most common frustration point on this figure.
attached
fully armored
Thigh to shin. Check that the knee moves freely after attaching the knee cap.
Outer Armor — Arms and Shoulders
Shoulder armor attaches over the shoulder joint from the outside. Forearm panels clam-shell around the lower arm skeleton — two halves that clip together. Leave the right forearm slightly loose for now because the arm cannon tabs into it before the panels close.
Arms armored, right forearm open for cannon tab
Arm Cannon and Blast FX
This is the step. The fusion cannon is a multi-piece sub-assembly — barrel, housing, and the tab that locks into the right forearm. Assemble the cannon first as its own unit, then tab it into the open forearm slot before closing the forearm armor panels around it. Once the forearm clips shut, the cannon is locked in. The blast FX piece plugs into the muzzle end — friction fit, no tab required.
Arm cannon assembled + attached · blast FX installed
Assemble the cannon before closing the forearm armor around it — not after.
The blast effect is a friction fit and removes cleanly. Most people prefer cannon-only for static shelf display and add the FX for photos. Completely removable, no damage either way.
Display Stand
The included stand has a center peg that inserts into a slot on one of Megatron’s feet. Not mandatory — he’s stable in a wide stance without it — but the stand lets you hold more dramatic poses without the figure tipping. Worth using for shelf display.
Megatron on display stand · dynamic pose
04 Finished Shots
Smoke gray backdrop, get that cannon angle.
left or right
cannon raised
close-up
cannon muzzle
This is one of the best figures in the Galaxy Version 01 wave and one of the better Blokees releases overall. The G1 proportions are accurate without being a slavish copy, the arm cannon is substantial enough to feel like a real accessory, and the articulation is genuinely good for a figure this size.
The knee armor is annoying. The right forearm assembly sequence is non-obvious without reading ahead. Neither is a dealbreaker — they’re just the two spots where you’ll pause and swear if you’re not expecting them.
If you’re building your first Blokees, this is a great place to start. If you’re a veteran who hasn’t pulled him yet, keep going — he’s worth the blind box gamble.
